Definitions click images for larger picture Spring rate: the distance a spring compresses under load. Preload: the amount the spring is compressed when it's not supporting any weight. Some preload is necessary just to keep the spring in place when the suspension is fully extended.
More preload is used to increase ride height and increase the apparent spring rate.
Stiction: the tendency of the fork to "stick" when compressed or released because of friction. Ride height: arbitrary measurement of height above ground or some suspension component at front and rear of the bike. At the front, ride height is usually measured by a plastic zip tie around the fork tube.
At the rear it can be the distance between the rear axle and a point you've marked on the fender or bodywork with a felt marker. Rake: the angle the fork makes with a vertical line through the axle.
Trail: the distance between the extended steering head center line and the contact point of the tire. Trail is determined by steering head rake and fork offset. Usually the steering head rake and the fork rake are the same.
Fork offset: the distance between a line across the centers of the fork tubes and the center of the steering head. Steering head: at the frontmost part of the frame, it's the tube that the fork's steering stem pivots on.
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Steering stem: the shaft that passes through the steering head, supported at top and bottom by bearings. Triple clamps: found at the top and bottom of the steering head. Each has three holes, one for the steering stem and two for the fork tubes. The fork tubes are set forward of the steering stem - see "fork offset" above.
Coil binding: when a spring is compressed so that adjacent coils touch, it is coil bound.
If all the springs are coil bound, it's no longer a spring but a solid steel cylinder. When this happens the ride suffers badly.
Project: SV650 GSXR Front End Swap (Initial Plan)
Damping: resistance to movement of the spring. Usually damping is effected by forcing oil through small passages.
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This resistance tends to stop the spring from oscillating after it's been bumped. Insufficient damping can lead to pogoing. Pogo: to bounce boing, boing, boing like a pogo stick. Nothing to do with the famous possum of the same name.
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Front suspension The following applies to conventional forks - the principles are the same for upside-down forks but the disassembly and location of components will be different. The first thing is to get the correct fork spring rate.
It's a matter of preference, but here are some guidelines: Use nearly all of the available suspension travel. Don't bottom the suspension.
This leads to a very harsh ride and component damage. Adjustments to the front suspension will require supporting the bike so the front wheel is off the ground. I hang mine from the shop ceiling, but most prefer to use a front stand that supports the bike under the steering head. Sag: First you'll need to determine the maximum travel of the fork.
With the front end supported, remove the fork caps and springs. Measure the distance from the bottom triple clamp to the dust seal on the fork slider. Compress the forks fully and measure again.
Record the difference in your log. It's best if these measurements are made in millimeters. Then replace the springs, spacers if any and fork caps. Put a zip tie plastic cable tie around the fork tube above the dust seal. Lower the bike so the suspension settles, then raise it again to measure the distance between the seal and the zip tie. This is the static sag. Record it in your log.
Lower it again, having pushed the zip tie against the seal. Sit on the bike gently in normal riding position, then dismount and take the same measurement. This is the first laden sag measurement. Lower it once more, then sit on the bike and compress the forks, slowly releasing the fork pressure until the suspension is stable.
Dismount and measure the distance again. This is the.
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